What To Do If Building Permits Weren’t Pulled

Many homeowners think getting building permits pulled is a waste of time and money. However, this is not the right approach. If you don’t have a building permit, you may be exposed to many risks. Talk to any construction expert, and s/he will ask you to get a permit even before they start to break the ground.

Getting building permits pulled is like getting a safety jacket before jumping into the ocean. The permit protects you financially and legally. At the same time, it ensures that no safety hazard or human casualty occurs resulting from completed construction or remodeling work. Put simply, once you have a permit, professional inspectors will regularly visit your construction site and ensure that all the code requirements regarding ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI), handrails with returns, bathroom venting, deck flashing, smoke alarms, etc., are met.

So, without much ado, getting an owner builder permit is the first thing you need if you don’t already have one and planning for construction works or renovations. Here we are to guide on the what’s and how’s of getting an owner builder permit. But before that, just a quick sneak peek into how much a building permit costs.

How Much Does a Building Permit Cost?

Well, there is no one-price-fits-all building permit cost for all homeowners in the US. The charges for getting a  building permit depend on per square foot charges in your locality, type of construction works included, project scope, etc. The cost involved can range between $150 to $2500. However, if you specifically talk about the owner builder permit, you will generally need to spend something between $500 to $2000. According to the government directives, the cost for the first permit is typically around $35 per thousand dollars spent on the project. The charges (per thousand dollars) for the second and third permits can be around $25 and $15, respectively.

Now that you have a basic idea about the cost of getting a building permit for house, let’s find out how you can get one.

What to Do for Pulling Residential Building Permits

Most municipalities require a building contractor or homeowner to have the residential building permits in hand before starting the construction or remodeling work. The norms also say that the primary onus of getting the permit is on the homeowner. However, some reliable builders agree to help homeowners regarding this. Still, the homeowner must check and ensure that the permit is actually pulled in time.

Nevertheless, here is a step-by-step process of getting a building permit.

  • Get in Touch with Your Local Government Authority:

You must visit the office or the official website of your local government authority to get the building permits pulled. As a homeowner, you can do this on your own or issue a letter of authorization to the contractor who is taking care of the work. You will receive an application form from the local government office or its official website.

  • Fill the Application Form Properly to Get the Owner Builder Permit

To get the building permit for your house, you will need to fill out the form properly. If you are unsure, it is better to consult your contractor or anyone having expertise in this matter. Further, make sure to know about and attach the required documents along with this application form. If you are a first-time applicant, you will need to attach many documents like Fire Clearance, Certificate of Occupancy, Environmental Clearance, Site Plan Approval, etc.

  • Deposit the Application Fees:

You will also need to submit the fees when depositing the application form. The application fee can be around 50% of the plan fee and is usually not refundable.

  • Inspection by Officials:

Once you deposit the application form and fees, the officials will visit your project. They will inspect the scope of the work and will have a close look at the project plan. This inspection is important for the officials as it helps them decide if you need any sub-permit along with the actual building permit, depending on the construction or remodeling work being done.

  • Fetching the Permit:

When the application and inspection processes are done, you will receive a notification. You can even collect the permit from the government office. At this stage, you will have to clear all fees related to the permit. Further, depending on the sub-permits you need, you may need to pay additional fees.

  • Displaying the Building Permit:

Once you or your contractor has the permit, do not forget to put it on display at the job site. Usually, inspectors regularly visiting a construction site to ensure that all safety requirements are met, and all the works are being done in adherence to the code requirements. And when the inspectors visit the construction site, they will look for the permit.

Steps to Be Taken if You’ve Purchased a Home Without Building Permits

Getting a building permit pulled can be challenging while or after buying a house without proper permits. That is why it is always wiser to consult an attorney beforehand. The attorney will help you prepare the agreement, clearly stating that the seller needs to get the permit and a certificate of occupancy signed by the local authority having jurisdiction before the deal is closed.

It is important because once the Purchase agreement is closed, the home buyer will be responsible for the construction or any work done in it without permits.

Thankfully, you can apply for a Retroactive Permit if you find out that the entire construction or a part of it is done without permits. However, you must consult a permitter or a construction expert in this matter. You should also seek suggestions from a legal expert.

Nevertheless, you can follow this step-by-step process of getting a Retroactive Permit.

  • Meeting with the Planning Department:

Once you meet the planning department, they will check whether the unpermitted construction complies with the present zoning laws or ordinances. If the construction is compliant with these laws and ordinances, an official will ask you to get a design review. However, if the design is non-compliant, some modifications will be recommended.

  • Get the Construction Design Plan Ready:

If you have the blueprint, it’s fine. Otherwise, seek help from a professional architect or draftsman to make the design for you. You may need site plans, floor plans, energy-efficient reports, and electrical plans.

  • Initial Inspection:

An inspector will visit your place and confirm whether the construction plan or design actually matches the construction or not. The areas focused on during the initial inspection are:

  1. Foundation
  2. Framing
  3. Electrical
  4. HVAC
  5. Mechanical
  6. Insulation

The inspector will make a report based on his findings. Based on the report, some repairs or corrections may be needed.

  • Final Inspection and Handing Over the Certificate of Occupancy:

Once you finish the recommended repairs or correction work, the authorities will give you a certificate of occupancy, and your permit will be cataloged.

Final Thoughts:

If you are not confident about getting an owner builder permit on your own, you can seek assistance from your contractor. Irrespective of whether you pull the permit on your own or rely on the contractor for the same, ensure the permit is in place before the construction work starts. Otherwise, the construction work may suddenly get stopped. Also, the officials may compel you to pay double or triple fees for getting a permit if it is not pulled initially.

Further, the consequences of not getting a permit beforehand may include demolition of the construction. Moreover, the valuation of your property may go down if it does not have a permit and you are trying to resell it.

Even as a home buyer, you need to be careful whether the permits are in its place or not. Make sure that your agreement has the literature that asks the seller to have the permit and certificate of occupancy. There is also a provision for getting the Retroactive Permit. However, the process is quite elaborate, and some cities even do not have this option. Its best to be proactive in regards to this and determine whether a permit can be acquired after you close on the home.

Ice Damming

In the winter, when snow falls, there can be many problems; a major one is ice dam formation. When snow accumulates on the roof, the roof becomes more insulated. The combination of this layer of snow along with the heated air inside the home causes the attic to get warmer. As the temperature within the attic increases, warmer air rises up to the roof`s peak and melts the snow. Melting snow and water travel down from the roofs peak it is reintroduced to frigid temperatures near the roof’s   lower edges. More and more water freezes at the roof’s edge resulting in the formation of ice dams.

Consequences of Ice Damming

One of the major problems with ice damming is that the roof’s shingles can be severely damaged. Ice dams can cause a lot of weight to be concentrated on the shingles. Snow melting and freezing cause shingles to curl, crack, and even break. As the water freezes and expands, the shingles can be shifted from their position or stripped from the roof entirely. Shingles that are lost or cracked can result in water leaks and subsequent moisture damage to the roof and the home. Furthermore, ice dams can fade away the paint and cause wood rot of the exterior trim and wall covering.

Ultimately, ice damming can decrease the life span of shingles, costing you time and money. Ice damming causes shingle aging to accelerate due to granule loss and mechanical damage. If frequent ice damming results the likelihood and severity of roof leaks increases.

 

What Causes Ice Dams?

Poor Ventilation

Attic ventilation plays a major role in regulating the temperatures of your attic space and can influence whether ice dams will form. If the attic is not well ventilated and heat is trapped inside the attic, the temperature of the roof decking will rise. This ultimately leads melting snow to roll down the roof edge, and before dripping off, the water refreezes. Continuous layers of melting snow and refreezing of snow cause a thick layer of an ice dams. If, however, the attic is well-ventilated during the winter, any heat that rises into this space effectively dispersed and removed. This reduces the likelihood snow on the roof prematurely melting and refreezing.

Lack of Insulation

The goal is to keep the temperature in the attic as close to that of the outside of the home to prevent the roof decking from warming before the cold weather subsides. Proper insulation goes a long way with helping accomplish this. By minimizing the amount of heat transfer from inside of the home into the attic, the possibly of ice dam formation is greatly reduced. Not to mention, your heating bill will be lower due to less heat loss.

Improper Air sealing

In every home there are air leaks which can exist on any floor. A home can be adequately insulated and still have air leakages that allow warm air to pass from the living space into the attic. These air leaks can warm your roof and lead to ice dams. Because air leaks can be difficult to identify without specialized equipment, its often best to call an expert team that can search through every floor and close the air leaks to avoid heating of the attic during winter months.

Poorly Maintained Gutters

When the snow on the roof melts, its important that water is able to travel through the gutters unimpeded. Problems with this arise mainly when leaves, moss, branches or other debris fill in the drain and blocks the passage of water. If the gutters are blocked the formation of ice dams may begin or become acerbated.

 

Warning Signs You Should Look For

When notable amounts of snow is melted at the top of the roof yet snow and icicles are present along the lower edges of your roof it is warning sign of ice damming. If you observe changing color of icicles to dark, this could be an indicator that the moisture has made its way beneath the shingles. This occurs as dust is transferred from inside of the home and into the ice.

Formation of icicles can also be a sign that melted water cannot pass through the gutter due to a possible blockage.  Finally, staining on the ceiling of your home means that ice and water has made it underneath the roof covering and has begun to saturate the interior surfaces of the home.

 

Heat Cable for Ice Dam Prevention

We previously covered many factors which can contribute to the development of ice dams on your roof. If addressing these factors proves unsuccessful or impractical, heat cables may be an effective measure to eliminate the formation of ice dams. Heat cables provide electrical resistance and create a path for water and snow on the roof to traverse into the gutters. This is helpful as it stops the water from refreezing at the roofs edge. This does not necessarily mean that the roof edges will be snow free, but they will be free from ice dam formation.

Advised Maintenance for Ice Damming

  • It is essential that you call an expert before the winter season to evaluate the roof and repair any areas that may be susceptible to ice and water penetration.
  • Consider getting a home energy audit to identify if and where additional insulation may be needed and where air leaks may exist.
  • Remove leaves and other possible obstructions to your home’s gutters to promote the flow of snowmelt away from the roof.
  • Having heat cables installed can be a good proactive measure to ensure ice dams to not form on your roof. There are many cables on the market, and not every cable system will match your roof design. Consult an expert that can carefully analyze your roof`s need and capacity.
  • It is an excellent practice to check the heat cable warranty, which can range from 1-2 years on you roof to systems that exceed 10 years.

Exhaust Vent Back-Drafting

Exhaust vent back-drafting has become a common concern for homeowners with the increasing usage of fuel-fired heating appliances in their homes. Back-drafting is the result a reversed flow of combustion by-products back into the home. Many fuel-fired home appliances like water heaters and furnaces burn fuel and produce combustion gases. If these by-products are not properly vented, this can cause the exhaust to be pulled back into the home.

When this happens, there is a possibility of the occupants becoming exposed to lethal combustion gases. So, it is quite clear that back-drafting poses potential hazards for the residents.  And this is probably the reason why home inspectors search for evidence of back-drafting during home inspections. Being a matter of concern, we should discuss when this problem happens and how it can be resolved.

How does Back-Drafting Happen?

A flue plays a key role in exhausting the combustion by-products produced by fuel-fired home appliances like water heaters, furnaces, boilers, and wall heaters.  Due to their lower density than the indoor air, these combustion gases rise through the flue and escape the home.

An improperly configured flue is often the culprit for exhaust gases back-drafting into the home. The flue vent should travel vertically for a minimum of 12 inches before an elbow or turn is installed. The exhaust vent should always have an upward slope leading the gases up and away from the appliance. The slope should be least ¼ inch per foot. Furthermore, there should not be any dips or sags in the vent. This vent angle provides a good drainage angle for condensing units and creates a strong updraft that can pull in hot air from the appliance.

Any blockages or narrowing of the flue can cause the flow of exhaust gases to slow down and accumulate within the home. This is part of the reason for why its important to have your HVAC system regularly serviced and cleaned.

Back-drafting can also occur as a result of the fuel fired appliance being located in a confined space without a sufficient amount of make-up air which is also referred to as combustion air. The flame produced by the appliance requires oxygen to maintain combustion and produce heat. Having enough make-up air will limit the chances of the house becoming depressurized. If depressurization happens the flame will attempt to pull in oxygen from outside the home through the exhaust vent which will result in back-drafting.

Depressurization (i.e., very low air pressure indoors) can also occur when a large amount of air is expelled to the outdoors through exhaust fans, fireplaces, and dryers, especially in air-tight homes. As a result, the release of combustion gases can be affected, and combustion gases can be drawn back into the home, causing danger to occupants.

How to Identify Back-Drafting?

There are various ways to detect exhaust vent back-drafting. One easy way to identify whether back-drafting happens is by installing a CO detector. This device detects the level of carbon monoxide in a home and sounds the alarm in case the carbon monoxide level rises above a certain level.

Another way to detect back-drafting is to place an ignited incense stick near the exhaust vent. If the smoke passes up through the vent, the system is venting properly. But if the smoke does not pass through the vent, there is a possibility that back-drafting is occurring.

Scorch marks and corrosion can also be indications of back-drafting. However, even without evidence of back-drafting, it is important to eliminate any underlying contributors to back-drafting as early as possible. For this reason, we advise homeowners to hire a professional to perform the maintenance job of fuel-fired home appliances at least once a year.

What to Do If You have Back-Drafting?

If you are quite sure that your fuel-fired heating appliance is leaking exhaust gas into the home, we urge you to take this very seriously. Improving the ventilation system can be the immediate step to get rid of this problem. You can open the windows of your home to allow the outdoor air to come in or even run the nearby exhaust fan to release the exhaust gases from the home.

Of greater important is for you to contact an experienced HVAC technician to determine the root cause of the back-drafting and correct it.

Heat Pump Mini Splits

A heat pump mini-split system is also known as a “ductless heating and cooling system.” The name is such because these systems do not require any ductwork to be installed in your house. Commonly these systems are used for heating and cooling functions in a room or particular space.

Further, many people consider ductless mini-split heat pumps more effective than a central air conditioning system, as each system will be responsible for heating and cooling a particular zone. So instead of having the same temperature throughout the house, you could set different temperatures for different rooms. The mini-split systems are also more efficient than centralized air conditioning systems as they do not need ducts, and thus, the question of losing heating and cooling energy in the ductwork does not arise.

Ductless mini-split heat pumps have indoor units for handling air and outdoor units that function as compressors or condensers. Both these units are linked with a conduit containing a condensate drain, suction tubing, power cable, and refrigerant tubing.

A heat pump mini-split system has a very simple working mechanism, and we will discuss this at length. But before that, let’s take a moment to cover how these systems are different from traditional centralized air conditioning systems, mini-split costs, and why it may be worth having these systems in your home.

What is the Difference Between a Split System and a Mini Split?

The conventional central air systems or split systems and mini-splits both have two essential components, the external and internal units. Further, both are efficient in controlling the temperature in an indoor space. However, these have some major differences. One thing you already know is that mini-splits do not require ducts to function. Also, the conventional splits can only perform cooling, whereas the mini-splits can both cooling and heating.

Further, a centralized air conditioner will maintain the temperature of a space with its central thermostat. Mini-splits feature remote control which can easily maintain the temperature of mini-splits in different parts of your home.

Mini-splits are more energy efficient than conventional split systems thanks to their inverter technology and “ductless” feature. Moreover, mini-splits are easier to install, and they occupy less space than traditional split systems.

How Do Mini-Split Heat Pumps Work?

A heat pump mini-split system follows a step-by-step working mechanism. It has two functions, cooling, and heating.

How Mini-Splits Work for Indoor Cooling

  • The process begins as the outdoor unit compresses refrigerant into a pressurized and high temperature liquid.
  • The heat is transferred to the relatively cooler outdoor air. As the refrigerant becomes cooler it then passes through an expansion device which results in a significant reduction in pressure and temperature.
  • This cold refrigerant travels to the indoor unit through the refrigeration lines.
  • Next, the warmer indoor air is sucked by the air blower and becomes cool upon contact with the evaporator cooling coils. In this stage, excess humidity from the air is also removed.
  • Meanwhile the refrigerant is transformed into a gaseous state as a result of absorbing heat from the indoor air.
  • The refrigerant then returns to the outdoor unit.
  • Finally, the compressor in the outdoor unit transforms the gas into high temperature liquid again through the exothermic process facilitated by the heat exchanger. This causes heat to be expelled from the refrigerant, which is why the outdoor units blow out hot air.
  • Once the refrigerant cools, it is again sent back to the expansion device to repeat the cycle.

How Mini-Splits Work for Indoor Heating

As previously mentioned, mini-splits can both perform cooling and heating. Mini-splits have a reverse valve or special switch for heating an indoor space, making the flow of refrigerant reverse in this case.

  • When in heating mode, the outdoor units absorb the heat from the outdoor atmosphere. The relatively warm outdoor air causes the refrigerant liquid to evaporate and turn into a gas.
  • The gas is directed through a compressor, which causes the pressure to increase resulting in a high temperature gas.
  • As the hot refrigerant travels inside, the blower in the indoor units makes the air flow over these warm coils, subsequently warming the surrounding air.
  • As the gaseous refrigerant becomes cool, it is transformed into a liquid state again. When the refrigerant is returned to the outdoor unit, it passes through an expansion device which results in an even greater temperature drop.
  • The refrigerant is warmed and vaporized by the outdoor air before entering the compressor again. Thus the cycle of heating continues.

Do Heat Pumps Work During the Winter?

Earlier versions of the heat pump dating back to the 80s and 90s worked well in moderate temperatures but struggled when temperatures dropped below freezing. Modern heat pumps, however, do not run into this issue. Heat pumps which are designed for colder climates can efficiently handle colder weather — even when the temperature is below 0 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 degrees Celsius). These cold climate heat pumps are capable of determining the minimum amount of energy needed to provide the desired level of heating and can adjust their output up or down, so that they never waste energy.

Should You Get a Mini-Split Heat Pump for Your Home?

The Department of Energy in the US underlines various advantages of getting mini-splits at homes. First of all, mini-splits offer flexible cooling in different rooms of a house. In many cases, four indoor units or heads placed in different rooms are connected to a single outdoor unit. Each of the heads will have its own thermostat for zone-specific cooling or heating. This flexibility of room-wise or zone-wise cooling and heating is also beneficial for saving energy and money. The Department of Energy further states that mini-splits can save up to 30% of energy consumption as they don’t need ducts.

An easy installation process is another advantage of getting mini-splits for your home. Moreover, these systems offer more flexibility in interior design as the indoor units can be wall-mounted or suspended from the ceiling. You will also find many floor-standing models of mini-split indoor units.

Having mentioned the benefits of mini-splits, these systems are ideal for specific types of homes. Mini-splits are great for cooling and HVAC care in older homes because installing a new duct system can be challenging in these homes. Further, homes with unique historical architecture should go for mini-splits as the HVAC systems. These systems are also suitable for home add-ons or extensions as they can condition the air of that specific space with an easy installation of a mini-split system. In simple words, if you choose mini-splits for home extensions, you will not need to redesign the entire HVAC system of your home.

Moreover, mini-splits are ideal for homes where renovation for installing ducts can be challenging and expensive.

How Much Does it Cost to Install a Mini Split Heat Pump?

The cost of a split system heat pump will depend on a lot of things. The first factor is the number of indoor units or heads you need for a mini-split system. It is possible to get multiple heads installed in multiple rooms of your house, and all the heads can be connected to a single outdoor unit. On average, every additional head will cost you something between $700 and $2300, covering the price of the unit and installation charges.

Another factor determining the cost of mini-split installation is the brand you choose. Also, the efficiency or the Seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER) score will impact the cost of a unit. A unit with a higher SEER will cost you more, but it is ideal if you want to pay lower electricity bills. In addition, the number of BTU or British Thermal Units needed for your space will determine the cost of your mini-split. Finally, your location and difficulties in the installation will be a vital factor in how much money you need to pay.

Nevertheless, installing a mini-split in your home will likely cost between $5000 and $18500.

Final Words:

In summary, mini-split systems have similar engineering to the traditional split systems used in home HVAC setups. However, they can perform cooling and heating both and offer more flexibility with zone-specific cooling or heating. Further, being more energy-efficient, these systems can be cost-saving solutions for all homeowners in the long run.

Mini-splits are expensive and need professional installation for proper functioning. So, you should consult a home or HVAC contractor near you to choose the right mini-split system and proper installation.

Why Spiders Are In Your Home

Believe it or not, spiders can be quite beneficial to our homes and gardens, considering that they snack on the other insects —like roaches, flies, mosquitoes, and millipedes— that could otherwise go unchecked. This understanding doesn’t, however, make our encounters with spiders any more pleasant… especially when they’re found within our own homes. Fortunately, there are many simple methods that you can use to clear up an infestation of spiders and keep them out for good.

 

What attracts spiders to your home?

Weather: Spiders are attracted to dark and comfortable locations and require specific environments to survive in. If the temperatures outside are cold, spiders will be eager to make their way indoors where they can be warm and cozy. Similarly, spiders will navigate to the indoors in effort to cool off when the temperatures outside are too hot.

Habitat: Most species of spiders prefer to live in dark and secluded locations such as basements, crawl spaces, garages, and attics. These areas can offer shelter from the elements and an ideal habitat for building webs and finding prey.

Food Sources: Spiders often make their way inside because they’re following other pests such as moths, flies, or ants. Like other pests, spiders also eat what whatever food sources we’ve left out for them. Crumbs, food scraps, juice residue are all potential sources for spiders to persist.

Mating: The mating season for spiders begins in the late summer and early fall. This is when many spiders will leave their webs and search for a mate. One spider may attract others when it is time to mate so it is important that you act quickly following an indoor spider sighting.

Gaps and Openings: Spiders commonly enter through tiny cracks, crevices, holes, and gaps in areas near doors, windows, and vents. Sometimes spiders enter through openings created by other pests such as mice. At other times, they may hitch a ride on the things we bring into our homes such as furniture, food, plants, and pets.

 

Where in the home are spiders typically found?

Spiders prefer to live in various areas in the home depending on the type of climate a particular species finds suitable. Generally, spiders are attracted to quiet rooms and nesting in undisturbed clutter with easy access to insects. Spiders that prefer moisture will be found in bathrooms, basements, crawl spaces and other damp parts of building ideal for hiding, reproducing, and pouncing on their next meal. Others that are more keen to dry climates may live in attics, air vents, and high corners of rooms where they can catch other insects that pass by. Egg sacs left from female spiders are commonly found in low traffic areas in the basement. In two weeks time, these eggs hatch into young spiders. When left unchecked, this cycle can manifest into an infestation.

How to prevent spiders from entering your home?

Reduce Exterior Lighting: Outside light turned on throughout the night can attract a plethora of insects such as moths, mosquitoes, and beetles. This activity can also draw in spiders. Keep outdoor lighting near doors and windows to a minimum or consider switching your bulbs to sodium vapor, halogen, or dichromium yellow bulbs which insects find less attractive than bright white and bluish lights.

Eliminate Exterior Shelter: Because spiders are often seeking out to shelter and warmth, things like stacks of firewood and piles of leaves can attract them to your home. Make sure your yard is clear of areas where spiders can find shelter or, at the very least, store these items a minimum of 10 feet away from your home. Break up any webs that you can see near your house to encourage the spiders to go somewhere else.

Seal Entry Points: Seal any cracks or small gaps in your foundation, siding, and weather stripping around doors and windows. You should also pay attention to areas where exterior pipes and conduits enter the building and make sure these locations are properly sealed. Any windows or door screens that have become loose or torn should be repaired and new screens should be installed where missing.

Use Homemade Repellents. Spiders are repelled by a number of natural scents that we often find pleasing. These include vanilla, lemon, citronella, peppermint, lavender, eucalyptus, chestnut, marigold, cedar, cinnamon, and tea tree. You can apply a few drops of essential oil in strategic locations at the exterior of your home, your garage, and even your car.

Use Store-Bought Insecticide. These insecticides can provide a chemical barrier that repels or kills spiders. Insecticides can be an effective means of addressing a serious spider infestation. A downside to this approach is that many insecticides contain toxins or chemicals that are hazardous to children and pets. It is important that you carefully read the labels and directions.

 

How to get rid of spiders in your home?

Remove Webs: In addition to being unsightly, these webs harbour spiders while allowing them to feed and reproduce. You can either dust walls and ceilings where the webs have been built or use a vacuum with a hose attachment to remove spider webs from your home. It’s best that you do this upon spotting any webs in your home.

Keep a Tidy Home: Regularly clean your home and remove as much clutter as you can. Leftover food and crumbs may attract spiders and other insects so stay on top of maintaining a clean kitchen. Don’t forget about low traffic areas such as corners and closets and clear out any piles of cloths. Also consider transferring stored belongings from cardboard boxes over to airtight containers. Doing so will make it more difficult for spiders to find areas that they perceive as well sheltered and comfortable.

Get a Spider Catcher: If you’re interested in a way to remove spiders from your home without necessarily harming them, look into getting a spider catcher. It is a hand-operated wand that works by surrounding the spider with bristles that close around the spider so that you can gently pick it up and release it outside.

Use Essential Oils and Vinegar: Essential oils can be an effective deterrent both inside and outside of the home. If your aim is to get rid of spiders without killing them and without insecticides, vinegar is also an effective natural spider repellent. You can fill a spray bottle with a 50/50 white vinegar and water solution and spray the mixture into the corners of your home, around window frames, and gaps near the entrance doors to repel spiders. It will likely take some experimenting to determine which solutions and ratios are most effective, how often you should spray, and which locations are ideal.

Place Spider Traps: Traps with a sticky glue designed to catch and kill spiders can be effective if you place them in areas where spiders are likely to be. These are often laced with a pheromone or aroma that attracts spiders to the trap. As with store-bought insecticides, you should carefully read the instructions and make sure they are placed out of reach of children and pets.

Use Store-Bought Insecticides: When used indoors, these treatments are usually intended to be used, in the corners of your home, beneath furniture, and along the baseboards. As described earlier, make sure you understand the instructions and potential hazards.

Smoke Alarms

Smoke alarms are designed to detect smoke automatically and warn you of the dangers of a potential fire with a sharp, distinctive sound. All-in-one smoke alarms consist of a sensor which immediately detects smoke and an alarm which is loud enough to alert everyone.

 

Progression of Smoke Alarms

Smoke detectors were invented a century ago and have rapidly evolved over the decades. With continuous efforts, scientists have developed sensors, alarms, strobe lights, voice features, etc. Smoke alarms today commonly work with the utilization of a battery backup and the option to be hardwired into the electrical system of the house.

 

How Do Smoke Alarms Work?

Smoke alarms work by sensing dangerous smoke particles in the air that can lead to a fire. Many homes today have smoke alarms wired right into the household electrical system. In addition, some homes have interconnected smoke alarms. This means if one alarm in the home sounds then the others sound as well. Presently, the two main types of smoke alarms are photoelectric and ionization.

 

Photoelectric Smoke Alarm – Senses small slow smoldering flames

A photoelectric smoke alarm consists of a chamber through which light passes. Inside of this smoke alarm, there is a light beam and sensor placed at 90-degree angles from one another. If smoke enters this chamber, the light beam will be scattered by the smoke particles and will activate the sensor. These smoke alarms are capable of detecting smoke particles from small flames before they result in a major fire. Photoelectric smoke detectors are quick and less prone to false alarms. These alarms are more effective at detecting fire originates from a smoldering source, like burning wires or a lit cigarette that falls into a couch cushion. Smoldering fires may fill a home with dangerous gases before a fire ever erupts.

 

Ionization Smoke Alarm – Senses rapid fire flame

An ionization smoke alarm consists of two electrically charged plates within a chamber. This allows a current of ionized air to flow between the plates. When smoke is present, the flow of ions breaks, and the current flow is reduced which then activates the alarm. These alarms are generally more responsive small smoke particles produced by flaming and fast fires such as thin fabrics, paper, and kitchen grease fires.

 

Potential Problems and Hazards

In one quarter of the homes with smoke alarms, the smoke alarms are not operational. Missing batteries, dead batteries, and disconnected detectors are usually the culprit. When gone undetected a fire can quickly spread and become difficult to control.

 

Be Prepared

Have an escape plan. Smoke and flame can spread quickly so you need to react quickly. It is vital that you and your family know what to do on hearing a smoke alarm. You should plan an escape route from every area of the home and identify a safe area to meet outside the home. You should rehearse the escape plan with your family. Walk through and identify obstacles that may slow you down such as windows that are jammed or exits that are crowded with storage etc.

 

Advised Maintenance

  • Smoke alarms come with an ideal life span of 10 years, but this does not mean that you should rest assured they work smoothly.
  • The battery should be checked annually.
  • Performing power tests once a month can ensure sound and sensor are working.
  • The new battery should be replaced  according to the manufacturer recommendation.
  • Clean the smoke alarms using a damp cloth and remove any dust nearby.

 

Smoke Alarm Installation Tips 

  • It is good practice to install smoke alarms 10 feet away from the kitchen.
  • Install smoke alarms in every room and every floor for the best safety.
  • You should install smoke alarms on the ceiling.
  • Always consider an expert to install the hardwired system for interconnected smoke alarms and manually check it regularly.
  • You can install a combination of photoelectric and ionization smoke alarms for added safety.
  • Consider installing smoke alarms with strobe lights or vibration for anyone who is hearing impaired.

 

Termite & WDO Inspections

What is a WDO Inspection?

WDO stands for wood destroying organisms that can ruin wooden structures and furniture. Wood-destroying organisms include subterranean and drywood termites, powderpost bugs, wood borer bugs, carpenter ants, and fungi.

The basement, crawl space, attic, or yard of your house can be the breeding ground of WDOs. A WDO inspection is a dedicated assessment process to find out infestations of the wood-destroying organisms, and the inspection process also includes discovering areas prone to such infestations.

Subterranean Termites

Subterranean termites are commonly found underground, and they are classified into three groups. Reproductive males and females have wings, and they are called swarmers. The other two groups are workers and soldiers. Among these three categories, workers move freely above the ground.

Spring is the breeding season of subterranean termites, and if there is an infestation in your home, you may notice the swarmers around your home. Further, you can find mud tubes formed on floor joists, foundation walls, and other places if subterranean termites have already begun to attack your home. These mud tubes are a kind of transportation tunnel for termites to travel from their underground colony to the wooden structure. A termite attack can make a wooden structure hollow from the inside and destroy it over time.

We usually assess the wooden structures near the foundation of your house to detect termite infestation. Wooden structures also become easy targets of termites when placed near the soil. Further, during a WDO inspection we will look for mud tube structures on walls or wooden structures to identify termite problems.

Powderpost Bugs

Powderpost bugs and beetles literally reduce wooden structures to powder or dust. The larvae of these insects create tunnels within the wooden structure and feed on wood. If you have old wooden furniture or antique wooden pieces in your home, the chances of powderpost bug damage can be higher. Further, you will notice small and round holes on the surface of a wooden structure if it has been infested by powderpost bugs. Also, a powder-like formation will come out of those small holes if the affected structure faces any external shock. If the wooden structure gets broken or cut, you will discover flour-like powder or wood dust created by the larvae.

Powderpost bugs can be divided into two groups, lyctid, and anobiid. Lyctid bugs tend to attack structures engineered from hardwood and bamboo. We often see lyctic bug infestations in new properties or structures that have been just made from hardwood. On the other hand, Anobiid bugs can infest structures made from softwood and hardwood.

Carpenter Ants

You must ensure that the wooden structures of your home are not subject to water damage if you want to avoid an infestation of carpenter ants. Moist wood is the ideal place for the infestation of carpenter ants, found in black and red colors.

You may notice carpenter ants in parts of your house, facing heavy moisture on a regular basis. These ants build nests around poorly sealed frames of windows and doors and around chimneys, sinks, and bathtubs. These wood-destroying organisms also reside in hollow spaces and porch columns.

These insects do not eat wood. Instead, they chew the wood fibers and create a hollow space inside a wooden structure for breeding. You will hardly find any external sign of damage if there is an infestation of carpenter ants in any of the wooden structures of your house. Nevertheless, you can try giving your wooden furniture a tap around the baseboard with a screwdriver’s blunt end. If there is a hollow sound, you can suspect infestation or damage.

Is a WDO Inspection Necessary?

A WDO inspection will help to detect and avoid the unpleasant consequence of termite and other wood-destroying infestations. These organisms often make the wooden structure a property hollow from the inside which can impair the structural integrity of a home. In other words, as a consequence of a WDO attack, you may suddenly encounter accidents like floorboard cracks, the collapse of beams, etc. In addition, these organisms can expose irrigation pipes or electrical wires, increasing the chances of injury to the residents and neighbors.  To avoid this problem, a WDO inspection is necessary.

What Is Radon Testing

Radon is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless radioactive gas released by decaying uranium. You can find it in nearly all soils and at very low air levels. However, the real problem arises when radon enters your home and becomes trapped. Long-term exposure to high levels  radon gas causes lung cancer.

Radon is the second largest contributor to lung cancer after cigarette smoking. There is no doubt that higher levels of radon are found in some regions of our country. However, the presence of elevated levels of radon is evident in all 50 states of the US. It is estimated that every 1 of 15 American homes contains an elevated level of radon gas.

So, it is important to test your home for radon to determine whether your home has high radon levels. This article will discuss everything you need to know about the safe level of radon, its health risks, and how to perform radon testing.

Safe Level of Radon

Not long ago, media hype caused both panic and skepticism about the health risks of radon. But as the research progressed, it made two things clear. Living in a home with an elevated radon level over a long period can cause lung cancer. And there are effective ways to lower radon levels in your home.

But first, you should know what the safe level of radon gas is estimated by the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). The EPA recommends remedial action in a home as early as possible if the presence of radon is between 2 pCi/L and 4 pCi/L. Unfortunately, there is still no safe level of radon exposure.  However, the EPA asserts that action needs to be taken if the radon level within a home is 4 pCi/L or more.

Health Effects of Radon

As mentioned earlier, radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer. In fact, it causes approximately 3%-14% of all lung cancer based on the smoking prevalence and the national average radon level.  Medical studies have revealed that radon exposure can also increase the risk factors associated with blood cancers. Let’s explore the health effects of radon in detail.

  • Lung Cancer

Although radon is considered the second leading cause of lung cancer, it is the number one cause of lung cancer among non-smokers.  As per the EPA, the chances of becoming affected by lung cancer increases significantly with the rising level of radon concentration detected in a home. The risk of developing lung cancer rises 16% for every 2.7 pCi/L increase in radon exposure. An annual exposure to 4 pCi/l is the equivalent of 200 chest x-rays per year. The EPA has approximated the chance of lung cancer as per the radon-concentration level.

  • 4 out of 1000 people could be affected by lung cancer at a 2 pCi/L radon level approximately.
  • 7 out of 1000 people could be affected by lung cancer at a 4 pCi/L radon level approximately.
  • 15 out of 1000 people could be affected by lung cancer at an 8 pCi/L radon level approximately.
  • 18 out of 1000 people could be affected by lung cancer at a 10 pCi/L radon level approximately.
  • 36 out of 1000 people could be affected by lung cancer at a 20 pCi/L radon level Approximately.

But if you are a smoker, the chances of getting affected by lung cancer when exposed to radon skyrockets:

  • 32 out of 1000 people could be affected by lung cancer at a 2 pCi/L radon level.
  • 64 out of 1000 people could be affected by lung cancer at a 4 pCi/L radon level.
  • 120 out of 1000 people could be affected by lung cancer at an 8 pCi/L radon level.
  • 150 out of 1000 people could be affected by lung cancer at a 10pCi/L radon level.
  • 260 out of 1000 people could be affected by lung cancer at a 20 pCi/L radon level.

Blood Cancer

A recent study published by Environmental Research reveals that radon exposure may also increase the risk factors associated with blood cancer. As the radon level increases, individuals have higher chances of becoming affected by different types of blood cancer, including leukemia, lymphoma, and myeloma. However, the reason is still unclear as the scientists are doubtful whether the radon emits the alpha particle that can potentially harm the DNA in the bone marrow and eventually cause blood cancer.

How to Test for Radon?

The best way to detect radon is to conduct radon testing. The EPA has already taken some strong initiatives to reduce the health risks associated with radon exposure. They have recommended testing the radon levels in all schools and homes below the third floor.

Fortunately, nowadays, you can find three types of tests available on the market to test your home for radon. These are continuous, short-term radon tests, and long-term radon tests radon tests.

  • Continuous Radon Tests

The best way to detect radon levels in your home is to perform continuous radon testing. These types of radon tests are designed to test the radon levels continuously. To perform these radon tests, an electric monitor is installed to monitor the radon levels. As such, this electric monitor samples the air continuously in an ionized chamber to measure the radon level. However, you can use this monitor for short, mid and long-term radon tests to know the average running level of radon.

  • Short-Term Radon Tests

Short-term radon tests can help to determine whether further testing is needed or not. You can measure radon levels with the help of electret or charcoal-based ion for 2 to 7 days. Nowadays, you can find many DIY kits available on the market for short-term radon tests. If you don’t prefer the DIY approach or need your results with a quicker turnaround time, you can also contact a professional for short-term radon testing at your home.

  • Long-Term Radon Tests

Long-term radon tests are ideal for measuring the radon levels for 90 days to 365 days. These testing provide an estimated annual average radon concentration in your home based on alpha particle tracking.  However, the result may vary significantly as per a drop in air pressure, variable soil moisture, gusty winds, and snow cover. You will often need to contact state radon agencies and online retailers to perform this radon test.

How to Perform Radon Test?

If you are interested in performing a radon test on your own, you will need to carefully go through all the instructions and directions mentioned in the user’s manual on the radon test kit. No doubt, some of these tests are very much specific and need accurate timing to conduct. If not done properly, the test may provide unreliable results.

However, the instructions remain almost the same for many home radon tests. These include:

  • Find the lowest area in your living space to place the radon test kit
  • Make sure to close all the doors and windows (except for entrance and exit) for at least 12 hours prior to performing the radon testing and throughout the testing.
  • Place the test kit approximately 20 inches above the ground or floor and make sure it is well away from the outside walls, windows, fans, and especially areas of high humidity like the bathroom, kitchen, or laundry room.

When to Take Action?

The EPA firmly recommends performing a second radon test only if the first short-term test shows a radon level of  4 pCi/L or higher. However, if the second radon test shows a concentrated radon level above 4 pCi/L, you should consider contacting a professional to perform the radon mitigation. It will ensure that your home is free of the harmful effects of radon gases. You can use National Radon Safety Board (NRSB)’s online locator or contact your state health department to find a certified radon mitigation company.

Final Thoughts

We hope you have a better understanding of what radon is, how to test for it, and how to reduce radon in a home. If you are a smoker, you should understand the dangerous combination of tobacco smoke and radon will increase the risk factors significantly for lung cancer, not only for you but also for other residents in your home. However, the only way to know if you are at risk of exposure to dangerous levels of radon is to test your home.

What Is Mold Air Testing

Molds are another name for fungi found in the exterior and interior of houses and different buildings. The mold spores and mycelial fragments get easily distributed in the air and can easily enter our respiratory tract as we inhale the air. Thus, molds can cause severe damage to our bronchial trees and other structures in our lungs. In addition, the presence of specific types of mold species in the air can increase the level of toxic chemicals like Atranones and Satratoxin.

Simply put, mold in air quality means the presence of mold spores, mycelial fragments, toxins, and allergens in the air. Proper sampling and scientific examination are very important to find the presence of mold in air quality.

When to Take Mold Air Tests?

A house becomes the ideal place for mold air tests if there is a suspicion about mold growth or the property has already been affected. Mold air tests are especially useful preceding and following remediation in properties with moisture intrusion, musty smell, water damage, visible signs of mold growth, and conditions ideal for mold growth.

This process serves as an effective screening mechanism which ensures that no major mold infestation on the property remains undetected.  Further, mold in air testing can detect the unbroken chains of molds in the air, and these chains often remain unidentified during visual inspections, surface sampling, and other examinations.

In addition, if air sampling is done following all the guidelines, it is the ideal method for assessing the difference in particle levels between a controlled and living areas. This is crucial for comparing the particle levels and air quality of a space before and after the remediation process.

What is the Process for a Mold Air Test?

A mold air test is a process of collecting air samples for laboratory examination and gathering data about mold’s presence in a building’s interior. A pump is used for the collection of air in houses and other buildings, and the pump drives the air through a collection device to capture the mold spores present.

Ideally, a sampler device is kept three to six feet off the ground and must be placed around the center of a room. Usually, the collection of air samples happens over the span of five to ten minutes per sample. However, if there are a lot of indoor activities going on or a constant supply of dust inside your house, the sampling work can take additional time.

A control or baseline sample is required to determine whether indoor air samples contain elevated levels of mold spores. Indoor sampling must happen in a livable space in your house, and the collected air sample should be of a certain quality so that it can be reproduced for assessment. Also, the doors and windows of the house must remain closed during the sample collection. In addition, exhausts, fans, or other air exchange facilities should remain switched off during the entire process.

Moreover, extreme weather conditions can be a problem for acquiring air samples and getting the right data. Conditions like harsh winds and thunderstorms can interfere with the results.

What are the Mold Air-Sampling Devices?

Different types of devices are used to examine the presence of mold in the air. The following are the commonly used air sampling devices for examining the presence of mold.

  • Impaction Samplers:

These devices come with calibrated air pumps for forcing and placing mold spores on a ready microscopic slide.

  • Cassette Samplers:

These devices are ideal for one-time-use purposes and are easily disposable. These samplers facilitate grabbing mold spores by the collection device by propelling air strongly.

  • Airborne Particle Collectors:

These devices come with collection dishes for capturing mold spores directly. These devices are essential and effective in assessing the species of mold growing in an affected area.

Cost of a Mold Air Test

The cost of a mold air test depends on many factors. To start, it depends on the fee structure of the company you are hiring for mold in air inspection. Further, factors like the number of samples collected, devices used, and the type of laboratory tests impact the cost of a mold in air inspection. Nevertheless, a mold in air inspection may cost you anything between $200 to $500.

Final Words:

Does a mold air test really work? Yes, it does. Despite the presence of various types of mold tests, air sampling is the choicest method for detecting elevated levels of mold spores in the air.

Further, elevated levels of mold spores in the air can hint at many other problems, like unseen moisture accumulation in your home. In a nutshell, this method helps to identify the presence of mold in your property and indirectly assists in finding the root causes of mold growth. Moreover, remediation becomes easier once the presence of mold and its cause are identified.

Well Flow & Water Quality Testing

What is Well Flow Testing?

A well flow test is about examining how much water your private well can pump to the system of your home. Checking the maximum and minimum range is essential to know how much water your well can safely pump to your home system. Some factors are considered to check the water flow level. They are:

  • Duration
  • Flow rate
  • Pressure range
  • Switch intervals
  • Well depth

Further, there is a fixed formula to determine a well’s accurate water flow level. Two elements are very important in the formula. First, its necessary to gather information about the time for which the pump is running. Also, keep a note about the quality of water (in gallons) the pump is drawing.

The flow rate can then be measured by dividing the water drawn by the pump (in gallons) by the operation cycle of the pump (in seconds). This result is again multiplied by 60 to get the result about the well’s gallons per minute or GPM water flow.  So, the formula is:

(Gallons of water drawn by the pump/Number of seconds the pump was on)*60

You can hire a reliable and specialized company to check your well’s water flow.

What is a Good Well Flow Rate?

The more, the merrier! On a serious note, let’s be practical as the natural water resources, especially groundwater levels, will differ across various geographical locations. So, a universal standard cannot be set regarding a good well water flow rate. Nevertheless, a 3 GPM water flow is decent for private wells in households. However, a well’s water flow is usually considered good when it is 5 gallons per minute or above.

If your well water flow rate is low, a technician can help you improve the flow. The problem can be solved by installing a booster pump, a constant pressure system, or adjusting the pressure tank settings. You can also receive suggestions like widening the borehole or drilling the well deeper.

What is Well Water Quality Testing?

The water flow rate of your well determines whether your household system is receiving adequate water supply or not. On the other hand, water quality testing assesses the water quality indicators and contaminants in your well water. This is very important to ensure that your water is safe to drink and wash with. Good water quality also ensures that that the appliances connected to the water source can function well and have a decent shelf life. In addition, quality testing also helps you to obtain necessary guidance from your local health and environment department if contaminants are detected.

What are Water Quality Indicators?

Some water quality indicators checked during water testing are the pH level, total coliforms, and fecal coliforms. If your well water has high levels of total coliforms, there is a high chance that harmful elements like viruses, bacteria, and other parasites are present in the water. Further, a higher presence of fecal coliforms hints at the existence of germs causing hepatitis, diarrhea, and dysentery.

In addition, a high pH level in your water can damage your house’s appliances and plumbing systems. Moreover, it can yield some adverse health effects.

What are the Water Contaminants?

The United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)says that the highest permissible level of nitrate in drinking water is 10mg/L. Maintaining this nitrate level is important for avoiding severe health problems like the blue-baby syndrome. If your well water has more nitrate than the permissible level, it will be considered contaminated.

Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC) derived from “industrial fuel-related chemicals” can also contaminate your well water if your house is close to industrial areas. Some of these organic compounds are:

  • Carbon tetrachloride
  • Benzene
  • Toluene
  • Methyl tertiary butyl ether
  • Trichloroethelene, etc.

Your well water can get further contaminated by harmful minerals like arsenic, lead, radium, mercury, and atrazine. Moreover, there are many instances of pesticide and germ contamination in well water.

If the inspection report says that your well water is contaminated, you must seek help from the local health or environmental department. You can also contact EPA to seek necessary guidance on the measures to be taken.

RELATED ARTICLE:ARSENIC, URANIUM, & VOCS IN WATER

Why Should I Test My Well Water?

You should get your well water tested because consuming contaminated water or being in contact with polluted water can cause instant or future health problems. Problems like diarrhea and dysentery are common health implications caused by contaminated water. Further, the harmful minerals and chemicals in the water can cause severe damage to your skin, hair, nails, and internal organs.

You need to be more particular about your well water quality testing if you have children, pregnant women, elderly persons, or people suffering from chronic diseases at home.  Regular testing of your well water is the most effective way to ensure that your well water is safe for use.

How Can I Get My Well Water Tested?

Your state’s local health and environmental department will usually conduct examinations to check the levels of water quality indicators. Further, you will find a detailed list of certified laboratories for water testing in your area on your state’s official website of the Department of Public Health.

What is the Right Time to Have My Well Tested?

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommends water testing yearly during spring. However, you must make arrangements for well water testing immediately if you experience any change in the water’s taste, smell, or color. Further, immediate testing is imperative if there are reports about well water problems in your area.

Your well water should also be immediately tested after any repairing work on the well equipment. Additionally, any land disturbance or waste disposal near your well should call for immediate water testing.

What is the Cost of Well Water Testing?

The cost of well water testing may differ based on the test being conducted. For example, the cost of a test for checking arsenic levels will be different from bacteria-determinant tests. On average, well water testing will cost you somewhere between $100 to $750.

Final Words:

If the inspection report of your well water is not satisfactory, or your well water fails inspection, it is imperative that you follow measures as guided by the technician. In cases of a failed inspection, cleaning the well, evacuating the well, changing the pump and other equipment, UV treatment, etc., are recommended. If the condition of your well water is beyond improvement, the technician will advise you to have a new well drilled.